Frequently Asked Questions

Basics

How big do Icelandic sheep get?

The Icelandic breed is in the North European short-tailed group of sheep, which has a naturally short tail. Icelandics are a medium sized breed with ewes averaging 130-160 pounds, and rams averaging 180-220 pounds.

Are all of your sheep registered?

Yes, all of our Icelandic sheep are registered. Pedigree information is viewed by clicking the registration number link on the Dams and Sires pages.

Do you recommend Icelandics for someone just starting out with sheep?

The short answer is, yes we do. Since they are a medium sized sheep breed, they are easier to handle than larger breeds of sheep and easier to handle than other livestock. They are a hardy breed, suitable for pasture lambing and to a large degree, capable of taking care of themselves. We have never experienced an Icelandic that was aggressive towards humans.

Icelandics are called a "triple purpose breed" meaning they have been bred for meat, wool, and milk. This gives a new shepherd an opportunity to learn about all of those potential uses for a starter flock.

When are lambs available for sale?

Usually, Icelandic sheep ewes are bred in late fall to early winter. This makes lambing time start around the first of April. Generally, lambs are weaned and ready to go to their new homes at 12 weeks old. Look at the Lambs page for current availability, or contact us.

When are bred ewes available for sale?

From time to time we will offer bred ewes. Call for availability. Since ewes are bred in late fall, they are for sale January through March.

I don't want to breed sheep. Do Icelandic's make good pets?

If your goal is a natural lawn mower, wool producing machine, ewes and wethers (castrated rams) are your best choice. Either will be very tame when hand fed and they get to know you. Wethers are generally the friendliest.

I've kept a few ewes for a couple years as pets. Now I'm thinking of getting a ram. What things should I consider in starting to breed my ewes?

Yes, adding rams and breeding your ewes does add a few considerations. Rams are generally larger than ewes and more mischievous. They are usually friendly, but, when in rut they are unpredictable.

Some shepherds with one ram will keep him and ewes together all the time. Ideally however, rams should be kept separate from your ewes except during the breeding period, generally late fall to early winter. However, sheep are gregarious, social critters and do not like being alone. So, even if you opt for one ram, he will need a buddy. Wethers are often used for company in a situation where the shepherd keeps just one ram.
Separating rams from ewes means you need two separate pasture areas -- one for the ewes and one for the rams. Why? Some rams may be too rough on the pregnant ewes -- pushing at the hay feeder for example and this may cause an abortion. Also, if you enjoy walking in the pasture among your ewes, having a ram there also means you will need to be on-guard all the time.
When in an area with a ram, never turn you back on him. You never know when they will become defensive and but you.
My rams are friendly and even when they are simply trying to get close to you for a food hand-out, they can unintentionally push or bump you with their horns.
You will need to consider when to combine your ram and ewes. Icelandic ewe gestation is 142-144 days. If you want bigger lambs earlier (for example for meat by a particular holiday) then you risk lambing during dangerously cold weather and will need to house your ewes.
After breeding, in early winter, you will need to move the rams back together. Rams are still in rut at this time and will fight each other. See the question below on how to deal with the reintroduction of rams.

How much milk do you get from an Icelandic ewe?

Personally, I have not gotten into milking my sheep yet. But, I've read and heard comments from other Icelandic sheep owners who do milk. To get milk, the ewes would have to be bred every fall or winter. Once the lambs arrive, some shepherds let the lamb get all the mother's milk for a couple weeks. After that, often the lamb is allowed to nurse for part of the day, for example until 10am. Then the lamb is separated from the mother so you can milk the mother in the evening. After a few weeks, when the lamb is eating grass or hay, you get 100% of the milk. I have seen reports of milk production per Icelandic ewe ranging from a pint per day to 2 quarts per day.

Do you sell lamb meat?

From time to time we do offer meat lambs for sale. Meat lambs are sold alive and we take them to the butcher as a service to the buyer. They are available by the half or whole carcass. In general, a 5 month old lamb yields about 40 lbs of delicious meat.

Do you sell wool?

Icelandics are usually sheared twice per year, once in late winter/early spring and once in mid fall. These sheep grow wool amazingly fast. The shorter early spring fleece is fine for felting. Hand spinners value the longer, clean fall fleeces. Contact us for availability.

Are your sheep all horned.

Icelandic sheep come either horned or naturally polled (no horns.) We breed only horned Icelandics -- we like the feral, bucolic look of the horned Icelandic sheep.

How long do Icelandic sheep live?

Icelandics live to over 15 years old. Some shepherds stop breeding their ewes when they reach about 12.

Feed, Minerals, Water

What do you feed Icelandic sheep?

Sheep love grass. And, for Icelandics, that's all they really need. You do not need to feed grain. Our sheep also love to browse on tree leaves, bushes, brambles, wild roses, poison ivy, new spring woody growth, etc. For the fastest lamb growth, we provide free-choice hay all year. Here in Michigan, there is hit-and-miss grass in the pasture through the winter and early spring. Hay demand by the sheep goes up at that time of year.

Our hay field is a mixture of Orchard Grass and Alfalfa. When our Icelandics are grazing in the hay field, we've noticed that they prefer the fresh grass and eat the tender tops from the alfalfa plants. However, when it comes to the hay, it appears they eat more of the dried alfalfa leaves and pass on the coarser dried stems. We recommend a hay that is a combination of grass and alfalfa.

Do Icelandic sheep need mineral supplements?

Icelandic sheep should have free-choice minerals available all the time. The mineral mix you choose must be formulated for sheep. Specifically, the trace copper required for sheep is different than for other livestock. Depending on where you live, sheep need supplemental selenium added to their diet. The soil of the eastern USA is low in selenium, therefore, the grass and hay produced in the east is also low in selenium. Make sure your sheep minerals contain selenium.

Do sheep have special water needs?

No, they do not have unique needs, however, sheep do drink a surprising amount of water. They should always have free-choice, clean water available. Here in Michigan, that means using a de-icer in the winter and shading the water supply in the summer.

Pasture and Fencing

I have 5 acres of pasture. How many sheep will that feed?

A general rule of thumb is 5 sheep per acre of good quality pasture. Obviously, If your pasture is not lush grass and is full of thistles, it won't support that number.

Much of our pasture is primarily a hay field. It was planted with a combination of alfalfa and orchard grass. This mix is working well for us. Between hay cuttings, we allow the sheep to rotationally graze sections of the hay field.

What kind of fencing do you use?

We opted for a combination of woven wire and electric. Woven wire was chosen for the entire perimeter since it is more predator-proof than electric. And, we believe it will be more durable and less maintenance. On the downside, woven wire is more expensive and labor intensive than electric, to install.

The woven wire we selected has 4 inch spaces between both the vertical and horizontal wires. It is 48 inches high.

For electric fencing, we use what is called "temporary" fence. It is relatively portable and easy to setup, move, and takedown. See the following question regarding dividing pastures for more on this topic.

We use both electric braided strands and netting. Electric netting is more expensive, more animal proof (both to sheep and predators,) and faster to setup. A much larger area can be fenced in using braided strands, which are a combination of metal wire, plastic, and nylon strands

For more information about fencing options, Premier 1Supplies has a quite educational web site and catalog. There is an excellent book on the subject. "Fences for Pasture and Garden" by Gail Damerow explains types of fencing and details on installing woven wire as well as building your own gates.

Should the pasture be divided?

Yes, you should consider dividing your grazing area into smaller sections, called paddocks. The sheep should be rotated from paddock to paddock so the forage has time to re-grow and parasite numbers dwindle. Studies say to graze a paddock when the grass is over 5 inches high. Sheep should be moved to a new paddock every two weeks or when the grass height falls below 4 inches. In theory, sheep should not graze again in the same paddock for at least 60 days. This allows time for the parasite eggs to hatch and the larva to die. This means you would ideally have 5 or 6 paddocks to move your flock through. Many of us cannot afford this luxury. In any case, the point is, the more paddocks the better!

Personally, much of our pasture is a hay field from which we produce and store baled hay for winter time sheep feed. Between hay cuttings, we graze the sheep on various sections. Since we need to cut and bale hay on this field/pasture, permanent fencing cutting it up into paddocks is not a good option. Temporary electric strand and electric net fencing works well in this situation.

We bought enough temporary electric fence to make a paddock or two. When it is time to rotate the sheep to another paddock, it takes about half a day for one person to take down the temporary fence and move it to make a new paddock of fresh forage.

Lambing Questions

What reference books are recommended?

A sheep book or two on the bookshelf will help your self-confidence, especially at lambing time. Managing your Ewe by Lawson is highly regarded and probably should be included in your library (just in case). One nice feature is the symptom key index that helps you identify a potential problem. In my humble opinion, however, this book often presents the worst case scenario and adds to a shepherds stress level.

There is also a free, online sheep book available at Ron Parker's web site. It is in PDF document you can download or print.

Do ewes and lambs need to be moved to a lambing pen?

In Michigan, with lambing time in April or later, housing Icelandic ewes is not needed. Indeed housing your expecting ewes may be problematic -- no exercise and sickness. Other breeds of sheep or lambing at other times requires more effort on the shepherds part as well as an increased investment in housing ewes.

Many shepherds, including myself, think ewes need the exercise. An overly conditioned (too fat) mom may produce a too large lamb. This may lead to birthing problems.

There is evidence, anecdotal evidence at least, that sheep cooped up in a barn are more prone to illness. I do not house my ewes so I have not experienced this.

After the ewe lambs, I may move mom and lamb to a pen inside the barn if it was a difficult birth. It somewhat depends on the situation whether or not I want to keep a close on eye on them. If they are moved to the barn, they are there for just a day or two.

What things should I have on hand in my lambing care kit?

For my first lambing, I bought a bunch of stuff from Pipestone Veterinary Supply "just in case". In my experience, however, there are just a few things I found useful for assisting in lambing with my
small flock of Icelandics. Here is a list of the necessary and a list of the nice-to-haves.

Essential:

Mild liquid soap (for lubrication as well as washing)

Latex OB. shoulder-length exam gloves

Iodine and small cup for dipping navels

Towels or dry straw to rub and dry off cold, wet lambs

Just in case:

Hair dryer to dry off and warm up a newborn lamb in very cold weather
Lamb puller - to hold head and feet
O.B. Leg Snare - to hold legs if unusual or breach presentation
Lamb Quick Start or Baby Lamb Strength Oral- for energy deficient newborn
Lamb Saver - tube and syringe for inserting milk directly into lamb's stomach.
Pop bottle lamb nipple or Pritchard Teat - for bottle feeding orphans
Milk replacement
Prolapse harness/retainer

My ewe had a somewhat difficult delivery. What can I do to pep her up?

One shepherd recommends: 1/4 C of molasses mixed in warm water with a 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda and about 30 cc of whiskey to administer to ewes who have had difficulty lambing. The whiskey helps in the rapid metabolism of the molasses and the baking soda provides for electrolytes. This is a old remedy passed on to me by a very experienced shepherd. We have found that it works effectively and makes for very happy ewes. :-)

What should I do to wean a lamb?

Unless you are milking the ewes, you don't have to do anything for a while. Nature and the mom take care of weaning. The lamb will naturally start nibbling on grass and hay and develop their rumen. Eventually, the mom will not let the lamb nurse.

Ram lambs, however, should be separated from the ewes by August 15 to prevent unwanted pregnancy.

What should I do when I find a lamb just born?

Usually, the mom will lick-dry the lamb. The first thing is to make sure the mucus and amniotic bag is wiped away from the lamb's nose and mouth, if the ewe hasn't done it yet. Make sure the lamb is breathing. One trick to stimulate breathing is to gently tickle the inside of a nostril with the a dry piece of straw.

If the weather is cold and the lamb is not dry, you can use dry straw or a towel to dry it. Dip the remnants of umbilical cord into a tube or cup of iodine. And, make sure the lamb is able to get that important first milk (colostrum) from the mother. If you're not sure the lamb is getting milk, poke a finger in the lambs mouth. A cool or cold mouth indicates the lamb is not getting the mother's milk.

After 1 day, give the lamb a 1cc BO-SE injection and de-worm the mom.

What vaccines and shots does a new lamb need?

At one day old, a lamb should get a 1cc injection of BO-SE to prevent selenium deficiency. At 6 weeks and again at 8 weeks old, lambs get a 2cc injection of CD/T vaccine. Also at 6 weeks, give lambs a second injection of 1cc of BO-SE.

Do you have to dock lambs' tails?

Icelandic sheep are in the North European short-tailed group of sheep, which has a naturally short tail. We never dock tails of Icelandics.

Sheep Handling

How do I catch and move a sheep?

There are several parts to the complete answer to this question. Most Icelandics will come up to you for a food treat or a chin scratching. But, that doesn't mean they will move where and when you want them to.

The first part of the answer to this question has to do with your fencing and feeding setup. The best and easiest and least stressful (on the sheep and you) way to catch a sheep (especially when you are working alone) is to crowd them into a small space. The idea is simple -- they have nowhere to run away. For larger flocks, they herd the flock into a long, curved, tapered, chute. For small operations such as ours, we don't need anything that fancy. Simply gate off the area to which the flock is most accustomed -- their hay feeder and water. Once the sheep are crowding around the freshly provisioned hay feeder, close the gate to this small area.

Once you have the sheep in a small, crowded area, catching is easy. Sheep are controlled by their head so that is the best place to catch one. Do not grab and pull out wool. Depending on how crowded the sheep are, placing your left hand under the sheep's chin and raising their head high enough will keep them from moving forward.

The method I use for moving a sheep is basically the one 4-H'ers use. Your left hand holds the sheep under its chin, holding the head up. Your right hand moves to the rear end. Sometimes a push on the rear with your right hand starts the sheep moving forward. Sometimes a lift of their tail is needed, or, a push with your right knee. To stop, lift the head or push the sheep's rear end out perpendicular to the direction it was moving.

How do I tip a sheep up on its rear end?

To shear or trim hooves or even slide a sheep over a smooth surface on its rump, you need to first tip the sheep on on its hind end with its four feet pointing out away from you. With your left hand under the jaw and your right hand on the sheep's rear, stand with your knees at the sheep's shoulder and hip. Your left leg moves under the sheep, behind its front legs. Push out with your right knee and the sheep will instinctively put up some resistance and push back. At that point, lift the sheep's jaw somewhat and turn its head back towards its rear -- kind of a folding action. At the same time, push down with your right hand. Don't move your left leg but move your right foot back allowing the sheep to settle down in that spot.

What is involved with shearing?

If you can't find someone to shear your flock, or, if you prefer as I do, you can do it yourself. You will need either manual sheep shearer called "blades" or an electric shearer.

Many shepherds shear their sheep using a stanchion. Some have learned the professional, speedy way. The professional way starts by tipping the sheep on its rear end. The chest and belly is shorn first. Using choreographed movements of the shearer's feet, legs, and knees, the sheep is moved through several positions whereby the entire fleece is removed in one piece.

The professional shearing method is best learned with a live-in-the-flesh teacher. There is a good video titled "Shearing Techniques with Fiona Nettleton" produced by Rural Route Videos. And, there is a good book titled "Shearing Day" by Kevin Ford. Both explain shearing the professional way. Personally I struggled learning this method until I persuaded someone proficient at it to watch me shear and critique what I was doing. (I am still a student of shearing, however.)

Using a stanchion to hold the sheep's head is a reasonably good alternative. An internet search for sheep or goat milking stanchion plans will give you some inspiration. Here is a stanchion example similar to one I built. Basically the sheep's head is held in place by two 1x4's that close up around its neck after the head and horns are through. You can put a little grain by its nose to keep them occupied while you shear.

I have two (or more) rams that are head butting. Is that a problem?

Ram fighting is a natural, normal behavior and rarely results in death. However, there are ways to minimize the fighting. Especially avoid a situation where a ram lamb is fighting a mature ram. Rams become aggressive during the breeding season, from around September through January. Typically individual rams are separated with a group of ewes for breeding. When breeding is finished, usually around the first of January, these rams are separated from their ewe groups and moved back together. This reintroduction of rams is the most common time when there is fighting. Also, when a new ram is brought in or a ram lamb is added to a group of rams, there can be fighting. After some time together and after their testosterone level goes down, they will become buddies again.

The trick is how they are confined during the reintroduction period. At first, the rams need to be shut in like sardines in a can. They should be enclosed in a space only large enough for them to lie down. Problems can occur if they are given enough space to get a running shot at each other. Some shepherds have found misting perfume on rams helps confuse their sense of smell so they don't fight as much. After a few days you can gradually increase their pen space some.

As the rams establish their new pecking order, the lower pecking order guys may want to get away from the head honcho. I have found that an escape pen works pretty well, For example, the "sardine can" you first confine the rams into could open into a larger corral or paddock. This allows them more space and gives the milder tempered rams a place to hide, when necessary.

General Health Questions

Note that I am not a vet. The following should be taken as "first-aid" suggestions. If in doubt, call a vet.

How often should I deworm?

Parasite control is an important ingredient in managing your flock. There is evidence that some parasites are becoming resistant to deworming drugs (called "anthelmintics") from overuse by well-meaning shepherds. Needless to say, this question of parasites can be complicated as well as controversial.

It seems there are two primary schools of thought on the subject. One, promoted by drug companies and vets, has you deworm your entire flock every 3 weeks -- whether they need it or not. The current trend is to deworm only when necessary. When is that? By inspecting the lower eyelid of the each sheep, you can gage the parasite load of that individual sheep and dose that one if needed. The degree of paleness in the lower eyelid seems to give an indication of the sheep's anemia level. Redness is good. Paleness indicates anemia and too heavy of a parasite load. This is also known as a FAMACHA test.

Icelandic sheep develop a level of immunity to parasites. Although, it takes lambs about a year to develop this immunity. Experts say that ewes lose their immunity after lambing and that it takes a month for them to regain it. So, you may want to deworm ewes at lambing time and pay close attention to lambs' parasite loads especially for their first summer.

How do I inject a sheep with vaccine?

Administering an injection sounds worse than it is. And, it is definitely easier giving one than receiving one. Sheep are given injections "subcutaneous," often abbreviated S.Q. meaning just under the skin.

If working alone, you will need to restrain the patient. I find a stanchion works well. Here is a stanchion example similar to one I built. Alternatively, you can tie the sheep's head to a post or something solid.

First draw back the syringe plunger drawing in air. Insert the needle into the medication bottle rubber top. Turn the bottle upside down. Depress the plunger to inject air into the medication bottle. This makes it easier to fill the syringe by pressurizing the bottle. Pull back on the plunger to fill the syringe with a bit more medication than needed. Remove the syringe from the bottle and turn it so any air inside the syringe goes up into the needle. Press the plunger slightly to expel any air stopping when you have the desired dosage.

At the top of the sheep's shoulders, pinch skin together to form a "tent" about an inch high. Use a 5/8 inch needle -- not so long that you go through the other side of the tent or into muscle. Insert the needle into the base of the tent and inject the medication or vaccine.

I have a lamb/ewe/ram/wether that mopes around and is not eating as usual. Are there any home remedies I can try?

Some have found that a drench of 20-30cc of 1/3 cup cider vinegar (raw if you can find it, otherwise the pasteurized stuff from the grocery store is fine), 1/3 cup molasses, 1/3 cup water, and about 1 tablespoon of garlic powder (or several pureed fresh garlic cloves) is beneficial for all kinds of sickly sheep. It smells awful to me, but the sheep really like it - I've even put it out in a bucket (diluted to about half strength with water) and they all slurp it up.

One of my sheep is suddenly limping. What should I do?

Tip the limping sheep on its hind end. (See handling techniques.) With the sheep on its rump, its back leaning on your legs, and its four legs pointing out, you have relatively easy access to examine the feet. Clean out any crud, manure, small stones, etc., from within the hoof walls. Feel around for tenderness. If you smell a rotten odor, there may be a foot infection. There are good articles on the web discussing treatments for foot diseases, such as this one at sheep101.info.

Once I found a thorn stuck between the lamb's two toes. Removing the thorn was easy and the lamb was fine. But, usually, I find nothing wrong and no tenderness. In that case, wait and observe. I've found the limping stops in a day or two.

One sheep is laying down frequently or repeatedly laying down and getting up?

This can be caused by a selenium deficiency which in turn causes white muscle disease. Treat with a BO-SE injection. Use the bottle label for the dosage recommendation (based on animal weight.)

Any other routine management tasks for Icelandics?

Periodically, hooves should be checked to see if they are in need of trimming. Sheep hooves are like finger nails -- they grow and if not worn down by use, they need trimming back. Unlike finger nails, however, overgrown hooves can lead to feet soreness, and, in the worst case, a breeding ground for disease and foot-rot fungus.

Preferably using hoof shears, clip down the hoof edges to about the level of the inner foot pad. The hooves should follow the angle of the foot pad. In a pinch, you can use a knife. Basically, the sheep is tipped up on its rump so you can examine each hoof. Clean out all the debris, crud, manure, stones, etc. from within the hoof walls. You can use the hoof clipper tip to do this. Start at the back of the hoof and work forward, paring down a little at a time.

There are many web sites that talk more about trimming hooves. Here is one example that discusses trimming goat hooves and has good photos.